Associated Press Story About Maque Choux Has Cajuns Hot
A recent article from Associated Press by Christopher Kimball has some Cajun cooks hot. Kimball's story, "Secret ingredient from summer corn lifts Cajun maque choux" includes andouille sausage and poblano chili. Real Cajun cooks say, no way. Keep it simple.
The Advocated picked up on Kimball's Milk Street cookbook recipe for Cajun maque choux, calling him out on even the basics.
After you cut the kernels off, use the back of the knife to scrape the cobs and release the starchy 'milk.' That liquid adds creamy body." -Christopher Kimball
The Advocate called that move, "...maque choux 101". Cajun cooks don't have to be told to use the back of the knife.
But the biggest complaint comes with all the added ingredients in Kimball's recipe. Here is Christopher Kimball's recipe for Cajun maque choux:
Maque Choux with Andouille Sausage (Christopher Kimball's Recipe)
3 ears of corn, husks and silk removed
tablespoon grapeseed or other neutral oil
6 ounces andouille sausage, halved lengthwise and cut into ½-inch pieces
2 tablespoons salted butter
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
1 small red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and finely chopped
1 poblano chili, stemmed, seeded and finely chopped
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
4 scallions, thinly sliced
The Advocate interviewed Cajun cook, Debra Broussard Taghehchian, and said to throw Kimball's maque choux away.
"That recipe made me want to scream." -Debra Broussard Taghehchian to The Advocate
The general consensus is that maque choux is a simple dish and should remain a simple dish with minimal ingredients. And the popular Cajun dish should be presented to the world just as it is prepared and served in Louisiana. Don't mess up a good thing.
Broussard Taghehchian told The Advocate she didn't know why someone would do that.
How can something so good go so wrong? I'm not sure why someone would do that. Trying to make something grand out of a very simple dish, I guess. -Debra Broussard Taghehchian to The Advocate